I sat next to a Muslim dwarf, on the baggage rack, on the train to Ajmer. Thought that was worth noting. No, you cant buy tickets for the baggage rack, but I had only bought a general seating ticket - 45rs, and there weren't any general seats left!
The town center was PACKED, and the Islamic shrine I had hoped to see, as well as being hopelessly crowded, also had a 'no bag/ no camera' policy, which meant it faced a 'no Pete' outcome.
Didn't come here for that though, as Ajmer is the gateway to the town of Pushkar.
Rather jumbled notes from here, so will do my best.
The reason I came to Pushkar was, well, I am not really sure. I think I had just heard fellow travelers talking about it, and it sounded nice in the Rough Guide. The Holi festival was taking place that morning, and it is famous for the throwing of paint on people. It was something I wanted to take part in, although I am glad I arrived late in the town square, as it looked like (and later conversations confirmed) that it had been like a war zone... clothes being ripped, and tonnes of paint being thrown, splashed, inbibed and generally abused! I arrived at the tail end, and still got 'painted', but was able to get it off with 1 shower, unlike some people WHO ARE STILL PINK/PURPLE (10 days later).
Because of the holiday, all the cafes/restaurants were closed, bar 1 place doing Israeli food.. and it was this place that got me sick..... damm you Felafel and humus wrap for tempting me!
I tried not to let it ruin my visit though, and managed to see the sites of the town, get my 50rs blessing at the lake, and doing lots of relaxing in bed (while not on the toilet). I was feeling slightly better the next day, so wanted to visit a very highly recommended cafe, where I had a great tofu and aubergine sandwich, but in hindsight, was rather a waste, as it was expensive, and came straight back out again. The clientele at the place though, made me realise that while I am another backpacker in India, I cannot call myself a hippy. I dont seem to share the same views, certainly not the fashions, and I think my view of my own self importance is kept mostly in check. The conversation of a young couple from Oregon sitting next to me angry. They were talking about how much they loved India, especially the food, while eating tofu salad and drinking milkshakes. They were not interested in going to China as there was nothing to see and no one speaks English there, and "because the population is so large, the culture is watered down with sudo-arts". As if China is so different from India, in terms of population and tourism. All of this took place while they were wearing the 'Indian' clothes that only tourists wear... angry!!!!!!!!!!!!
Overall though, I dont think I missed too much by being sick here, as Pushkar is a town aimed squarely at tourists (every building seems to be a guesthouse or a shop)
Backpacking around India. No real direction but plenty of stories and experiences (hopefully)
Thursday, 15 March 2012
Jaipur
Despite being one of the big stops on the Rajestan circuit, Jaipur is rubbish. Well, its rubbish compared to the other cities in the state, which have still managed to keep some atmosphere, while pursuing the relentless push to capitalism that India strives for.
Jaipur though, it full of shopping malls, and at least 2 McDonalds, and lots of traffic, and very little charm.
The reason for my staying was to see the Elephant festival, as well as see some of the historical sites, and I am glad I did visit, but 1 day would have been enough, if it wasn't for the festival being unable to give reliable information - the tourist information said come at midday...nothing happened till 4pm.
I was also couch-surfing here, which was a nice way to meet some locals, as well as save money, and it led to some very interesting experiences. Going for an evening drive with a friend of the couchsurfer, we stopped off at a very expensive restaurant - aimed at rich tourists as it has a nightly 'cultural show' featuring dancing and music. Just had a tea, which was nice, and not overly expensive, and got into talking with one of the other customers, a single Indian guy. I could make this a very long story, and I might when it comes to writing my memoirs. But for this version, I will be brief. This guy paid for dinner, and for lunch and dinner the next two days (he probably spent 1000rs on food for me, which is certainly more than I would have spent, although I did get a very nice apple pie and ice cream)... anyway.... he worked for a jewelry exporter and needed, what amounted to a mule, to get some stuff into Australia and avoid paying tax. I was offered, along with free flights and 3 nights hotels, 7000pounds and the prospect of further work.
Thankfully, I am not that desperate for the money (although it would have been very nice), otherwise the offer would have sounded VVEERRRYYY NIIICCEEE. I declined (after getting all the nice food), and will add the whole experience to the growing list!
Anyway, more about the city. The biggest attraction for me, other than the elephants, was to see the Jantar Mantar. Not that I have any interest in astronomical instruments but the whole place seemed suitably unique, and it was fun to see.. for about 20 minutes.
But the elephants where the main attraction, and I am glad I went to see them. The festival was housed at the polo grounds, still in use, and a very posh place it was too. Got to see lots of elephants, all dressed up and painted, as well as regional dancing and music, although with 90% of the audience being tourists, it was clear to see where the focus of the thing was. It was free though, so I was happy!
Jaipur though, it full of shopping malls, and at least 2 McDonalds, and lots of traffic, and very little charm.
The reason for my staying was to see the Elephant festival, as well as see some of the historical sites, and I am glad I did visit, but 1 day would have been enough, if it wasn't for the festival being unable to give reliable information - the tourist information said come at midday...nothing happened till 4pm.
I was also couch-surfing here, which was a nice way to meet some locals, as well as save money, and it led to some very interesting experiences. Going for an evening drive with a friend of the couchsurfer, we stopped off at a very expensive restaurant - aimed at rich tourists as it has a nightly 'cultural show' featuring dancing and music. Just had a tea, which was nice, and not overly expensive, and got into talking with one of the other customers, a single Indian guy. I could make this a very long story, and I might when it comes to writing my memoirs. But for this version, I will be brief. This guy paid for dinner, and for lunch and dinner the next two days (he probably spent 1000rs on food for me, which is certainly more than I would have spent, although I did get a very nice apple pie and ice cream)... anyway.... he worked for a jewelry exporter and needed, what amounted to a mule, to get some stuff into Australia and avoid paying tax. I was offered, along with free flights and 3 nights hotels, 7000pounds and the prospect of further work.
Thankfully, I am not that desperate for the money (although it would have been very nice), otherwise the offer would have sounded VVEERRRYYY NIIICCEEE. I declined (after getting all the nice food), and will add the whole experience to the growing list!
Anyway, more about the city. The biggest attraction for me, other than the elephants, was to see the Jantar Mantar. Not that I have any interest in astronomical instruments but the whole place seemed suitably unique, and it was fun to see.. for about 20 minutes.
But the elephants where the main attraction, and I am glad I went to see them. The festival was housed at the polo grounds, still in use, and a very posh place it was too. Got to see lots of elephants, all dressed up and painted, as well as regional dancing and music, although with 90% of the audience being tourists, it was clear to see where the focus of the thing was. It was free though, so I was happy!
Nawalgar
I am very behind with writing this blog, sorry!
On the recommendation of French lady I met in Orchha, I visited Nawalgarh, an area famous for its old havelli houses - private merchants houses, based around an enclosed inner courtyard.
The bus from Jaipur was either the best driving I have ever witnessed, or the worst, depending on how you define it. We came close to death very often, and so did everyone we passed, and yet all were unhurt, and seemingly, unperturbed by it all. It was nice to get out into the relative countryside, well, towns as opposed to cities. The pace of life is quieter, and less touts! While walking into town to find somewhere to sleep, I spotted an organic food shop that seems worth a visit - and it certainly was! Just popped into to have a look really, and their range of stuff was amazing. It turns out they are part of a national chain, this being the head office, so I will be buying some stuff in Calcutta before flying home. Organic chickpeas and lentils, for the same price as the normal stuff in the UK. But apart from the free tea and cookies I got while chatting to the manager, the offer to sleep in the companies havelli in town... for free... really made the visit worth while! Also managed to get free entry into the other havellis in town (and some rather tedious free tour guiding as well), but made me glad I had visited and come off the tourist path (well, the youthful path - a few tour groups of elderly French people were in town).
The buildings, in their faded kitsch, with paintings (some very childish) were fascinating, but the place must have been terribly ostentatious when it was new - very 'new money'. I had my quietest nights sleep so far, but slightly creepy, sleeping as I was, in an empty museum. Next days train back into Jaipur was my first on a meter-gauge train in India, not that its easy to notice, but another notch on the stick of 'Indian experiences'. It reminded me of the old man from Barnsley I met while on the way to Gandhi's ashram, who was livid that the meter gauge line he had come to see, and had a ticket for, had been replaced by normal sized rail 3 years ago.
Some of the questions from people on the train:
"Do you have rice in England?"
"What about camels or buffalo?"
"Is there a shortcut to earning money? I want to be rich."
"What do you think of Indian traffic rules?" <- My reply of "what rules?" was met with laughs thankfully!
On the recommendation of French lady I met in Orchha, I visited Nawalgarh, an area famous for its old havelli houses - private merchants houses, based around an enclosed inner courtyard.
The bus from Jaipur was either the best driving I have ever witnessed, or the worst, depending on how you define it. We came close to death very often, and so did everyone we passed, and yet all were unhurt, and seemingly, unperturbed by it all. It was nice to get out into the relative countryside, well, towns as opposed to cities. The pace of life is quieter, and less touts! While walking into town to find somewhere to sleep, I spotted an organic food shop that seems worth a visit - and it certainly was! Just popped into to have a look really, and their range of stuff was amazing. It turns out they are part of a national chain, this being the head office, so I will be buying some stuff in Calcutta before flying home. Organic chickpeas and lentils, for the same price as the normal stuff in the UK. But apart from the free tea and cookies I got while chatting to the manager, the offer to sleep in the companies havelli in town... for free... really made the visit worth while! Also managed to get free entry into the other havellis in town (and some rather tedious free tour guiding as well), but made me glad I had visited and come off the tourist path (well, the youthful path - a few tour groups of elderly French people were in town).
The buildings, in their faded kitsch, with paintings (some very childish) were fascinating, but the place must have been terribly ostentatious when it was new - very 'new money'. I had my quietest nights sleep so far, but slightly creepy, sleeping as I was, in an empty museum. Next days train back into Jaipur was my first on a meter-gauge train in India, not that its easy to notice, but another notch on the stick of 'Indian experiences'. It reminded me of the old man from Barnsley I met while on the way to Gandhi's ashram, who was livid that the meter gauge line he had come to see, and had a ticket for, had been replaced by normal sized rail 3 years ago.
Some of the questions from people on the train:
"Do you have rice in England?"
"What about camels or buffalo?"
"Is there a shortcut to earning money? I want to be rich."
"What do you think of Indian traffic rules?" <- My reply of "what rules?" was met with laughs thankfully!
Friday, 9 March 2012
Alwar
A town that is totally off the tourist trail..the only other white people I saw were arriving at the station while I was leaving!
People were very friendly, and the normal call of 'Hellos' were simply that, and not followed by the 'do you want any silk/toilet paper/water' etc. I even managed to get two cricket matches out of the kids. 1st was against some University Students, and they made me look terrible.... so to feel better, I played against some 10 year olds and was amazing!
The palace was a ramshackle place, mainly being used as offices for the local government, and free to wander around, and up on the hill overlooking the town was a huge fort complex, with walls all over the place (looked like something out of Lord of the Rings).
The walk up was great, and the number of deer and peacocks was amazing. Most of them were clearly not scared of humans. The guide I 'picked up' (he started following me) said there used to be jaguars in the hills as well, but they have all be shot apparently, which is a shame, but might explain the number of tame animals! Favourite quote from his 30minute monologue (the time it took to get to the top)
"Engineering students come here to do immoral things like kissing etc...do you know Sunny Leone?....No? She is Indian pornstar." I really wasn't sure what his point was, as his morality seems to be conflicting somewhat.
I went to the local church on Sunday, mainly as it was in such a lovely building! A miniature English church, right in the middle of a typical Indian town (although inside was Indian, with bright coloured walls) The service was all in Hindi, and I am not sure what denomination it was, but it sounded very angry. The congregation was segregated as well, men on the right, women on the left, and the saris added another blast of decidedly un-british colour. Had a nice conversation and tea with some of the men afterwards.
Baratpur and Keoladeo National Park
Bit of a random choice, as the highlight here is Keoladeo National Park, famous for its birds. Lots of birds.
Found a lovely quiet guesthouse with a garden and really should have stayed an extra night, as it was very peaceful. The park, mainly the allure of hanging out in nature, was inviting, but the entrance price had doubled since the guidebook came out early last year, and honestly that almost put me off. But I am glad I visited, not really due to the birds seen, but the mammals were great, and cycling around the park was nice and relaxing. Saw some owls, ibis, peacocks, storks, kingfisher and lots of other birds, plus jackals, deer, bigger deer and a family of mongoose!
Fatehpur Sikri
A short trip from Agra, although it feels very different, is Fatehpur Sikri, the short lived city of Akbar, and a lovely place to visit!
Many less tourists, and therefore the shops and touts that survive off them, and a far more rural setting. The mosque is HUGE, and clearly shows the intended importance of the whole area, as it could easily more people than live in the currant village. It is however, home to a number of people selling marble trinkets and silks, and it was a little distracting. I remember thinking, "Jesus wouldn't be happy about this!"
The palace is a great place to wander around, and imagine the former splender, and i really would recommend the place to people visiting the area.
Saturday, 3 March 2012
Agra
Haven't found time to make any notes, which is silly really, but its the truth. So, writing this off the bat, in the internet cafe in Alwar.
Agra is.... not a great city, it must be said. I am not sure why, but I didn't enjoy it much. That being said, it is surrounded by some amazing sites, and I am glad I visited it, but just wont be returning anytime soon.
Managed to eventually find a hotel that wasn't a rip-off or a dump, and 300rs later, at 7am, I was off to visit the Taj. The promised queues were not there, and I was into the complex within 3 minutes, minus 750rs! The cost really is amazing, considering that 500rs of that is tax added by the city, but with seeminly 70% of the visitors being foreign, they know they are on to a money maker. The building is simply breathtaking, and I dont think I have the words to do it justice. So I wont bother. It has to be seen to be believed though.
I refused to pay 300rs to enter the fort, as I will be visiting many of them in the next month in Rajestan and need to save both my money, and my desire to see more forts. But i did walk round it, and it was very big. I was walking towards the mosque, that used to be connected to the northern part of the fort by a courtyard, but had the railway line run through it by the British as punishment for the mutiny in 1847 (?). Huge big complex, in the same style as others here. I took offense for a donation being DEMANDED by the caretaker though, and only gave 10rs. A donation is a donation, not a fee.
After that I saw Akbar's tomb at Sikandra, despite my best efforts to miss it. Not only did I buy a ticket for a town 30km away (and it was much more expensive), but I slept past the stop, and had to get an autorickshaw back to Sikandra. But it was worth it, even with the 250rs entrance. A huge sprawling area, with far less tourists, especially foreign ones, it was peaceful in comparison to the rest of the city. The park around it still has deer and peacocks, just as in the past, and it felt almost like going back in time. Recommended for sure!
My hour is up... more stories about the travels coming up.
Agra is.... not a great city, it must be said. I am not sure why, but I didn't enjoy it much. That being said, it is surrounded by some amazing sites, and I am glad I visited it, but just wont be returning anytime soon.
Managed to eventually find a hotel that wasn't a rip-off or a dump, and 300rs later, at 7am, I was off to visit the Taj. The promised queues were not there, and I was into the complex within 3 minutes, minus 750rs! The cost really is amazing, considering that 500rs of that is tax added by the city, but with seeminly 70% of the visitors being foreign, they know they are on to a money maker. The building is simply breathtaking, and I dont think I have the words to do it justice. So I wont bother. It has to be seen to be believed though.
I refused to pay 300rs to enter the fort, as I will be visiting many of them in the next month in Rajestan and need to save both my money, and my desire to see more forts. But i did walk round it, and it was very big. I was walking towards the mosque, that used to be connected to the northern part of the fort by a courtyard, but had the railway line run through it by the British as punishment for the mutiny in 1847 (?). Huge big complex, in the same style as others here. I took offense for a donation being DEMANDED by the caretaker though, and only gave 10rs. A donation is a donation, not a fee.
After that I saw Akbar's tomb at Sikandra, despite my best efforts to miss it. Not only did I buy a ticket for a town 30km away (and it was much more expensive), but I slept past the stop, and had to get an autorickshaw back to Sikandra. But it was worth it, even with the 250rs entrance. A huge sprawling area, with far less tourists, especially foreign ones, it was peaceful in comparison to the rest of the city. The park around it still has deer and peacocks, just as in the past, and it felt almost like going back in time. Recommended for sure!
My hour is up... more stories about the travels coming up.
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