Wednesday 11 July 2012

Darjeeling

The bridge at the border back into India (Sikkim is semi-independent, still has passport control etc), was closed due to a massive hole in it! Took 4 hours for new metal sheeting to be installed, and back on our way- thankfully the weather was ok!


(It was World Environment Day apparently, so these kids were marching around with cards they had made)

 
(The broken bridge)

Once back in 'India', the countryside gave way to tea plants...everywhere! The Darjeeling area produces 9million kgs of tea a year, which only accounts for 7% of Indian production! Wow, the world drinks a lot of tea.




(tea, and clouds = pretty much sums up Darjeeling!)

Despite being an area associated with the British Raj, very few of the buildings remain, with much of the town looking like every other Indian town - concrete boxes. Those that have remained tend to be used by government institutions, schools, and the very wealthy.


(a bit of British still standing- just)

The weather, much like Sikkim, was terrible - dense fog/rain/clouds - which rather limited what i was able to do, but i still tried to be active. There is very little to see in the town itself, with most interesting things being a walk away.

 I visited the Tibetan Refugee Self Help Centre, a fantastic place where refugees from the Chinese invasion of Tibet are able to live and work to sustain themselves. They are all involved in making crafts of various kinds - carpet weaving being the main one, but tailoring, weaving, painting, carpentry all were present. Everyone seemed happy, and I bought a Yak hair shawl to help out.


(Buddhist monks being noisy)




(very friendly lady spinning wool to be made into carpets. One of the few words i picked up while in Dharamsala was 'hello' in Tibetan. "Tashi-delek"...which went down a storm here!)


(Child monks playing)

Also visited a tea plantation and factory, which it turns out, makes all of Harrod's organic Darjeeling tea. It was a small place, but fascinating to see the production process, which is surprisingly easy - pick leaves, dry leaves, then either pack (green tea) or ferment for a bit then pack (black tea). The whole place smelt of tea which i really rather liked.




(The toy train - one relic of the Raj that still works. It is supposed to link to the main train system, but a bridge has been broken for over a year, and now is just a tourist attraction. It goes at walking speed, so i of course chose to walk!)

Lloyd botanical gardens is a great remnant of the Raj, with a big selection of trees spread out on the southern slope below town, and provided a relatively quiet place to read, which is more than can be said of the zoo, which WAS PACKED. Was great to see a tiger, and red pandas up close, but you certainly cant describe Indian tourists as quiet. The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, which is found inside the park, has lots of photos of the first Everest submitting, and lots of history of Indian climbing, but its a rather dry place - just lots and lots of photos and bits of climbing equipment.


(Red Panda..isn't it cute!)
I DID enjoy Darjeeling- walking around, doing lots of shopping, eating at the cafes and reading alot, but it is most certainly an Indian tourist destination, and as such, lacks much of the charm of smaller places, and the peace as well!

Thursday 5 July 2012

Yuksom

Next stop was Yuksom, a 4 hour cross-country hike, passing some very small villages, waterfalls etc. Hot and sweaty but very nice and much nicer than walking on roads.

(which bridge would YOU choose?)

Yuksom itself is a great little place - surrounded by hills making it the perfect place to use as a base for a number of day hikes......when the weather is better of course. Not much point now, as you really cant see much, and it is far too humid. There is also a good little cafe serving CHEAP western inspired food. Loved it.

(powercut in the village, so candles in the hall)

Wednesday 4 July 2012

Kechopari lake


The lack of transport meant 4 hours of sweaty hiking along the side of roads to get here, and then another hike up to the small village where I stayed, but it was certainly worth it!

 (One of the waterfalls I past on the walk)


(the walk up to the village- PEACE!)

An even quieter place, with the village getting no through traffic at all (and therefore no noisy Indian families on holiday) making it lovely and quiet, and much more authentic. I ended up staying here 3 nights as i liked it so much.


(where i stayed)

Still no views, and the lake itself is nothing special, but plenty of reading and relaxing and just generally enjoying rural life.


(weed and corn- rural crops it seems. You can also see what the view was like)
(Indian family feeding the fish)

Tuesday 3 July 2012

Darap

The public transport situation in West Sikkim (and the whole place in general) is very patchy, so I ended up hiking out towards my destination, as I couldn't find a taxi or bus that was going.

Which was actually very lucky, as I would have driven right past Darap. I only stopped, as I met a local guy walking in the same direction, and he recommended it (it was his home village). He took me to see his young wife and baby, before helping me find somewhere to stay for the night.

A nice little village- nothing particular scenic, but it was quiet, and the terrible weather meant I read a whole book in a day - Stephen Fry isn't bad at fiction! I also helped make dinner at the home stay, and read Spiderman comics with the 5 year old son. Nice place!

(where i stayed)

Pelling

Well, I made it to all 4 districts of Sikkim - creatively named North, South, East and West - all of it via bumpy roads in cramped vehicles. Travelling eh!

The town is surrounded by forests, and the whole area is less touristy than Gangtok, which is exactly why I came here! Not a view in sight though, as the rain has settled, and thick fog when its dry.

(The site of the former capital of Sikkim- and the view of the mountains)

Which is a shame, as its main attraction is the view it has over the mountains. Oh well, at least the monastery was great, with fantastic paintings, and parts from even older incarnations of the complex.





Had a lovely cup of organic tea at a local co-operative, although their apple pie had mold on it, but they were nice enough to give a refund on that!

(Peace and quiet - Buddhist prayer flags)